Staycation Eats

There are so many great restaurants in NYC, it's inevitable that some of them will be out-of-the-way. Faced with the expense and hassle of a last minute trip somewhere or enjoying my beautiful city, I chose to eat my way through the holiday week.

Thanks to a tip from Chowhound, on Monday I joined my parents at Gotham Bar & Grill for one of the most elegant lunches I've ever had. The roasted beet and mango salad was a line of colorful cut pieces on a long plate: delicious and tasty as well as a visual treat. I rarely order steak in restaurants, but their hanger steak was perfectly cooked. In addition to their $31 prix fixe for lunch, they also have a selection of $31 bottles of wine; we had a bottle from the unfamiliar region of France called Saint-Chinian. The chocolate marquise was the perfect end to the meal.

I'll mention in passing that I had supper at Tia Pol, mostly to note I'd forgotten just how incredible the food is. Also, it was the first time I'd EVER been seated - possibly because we got there 30mins before the kitchen closed :-P

I'd planned to go to L'Impero the very first time I was free on a business day, but then they closed. Fortunately for me, Scott Conant re-opened it as Convivio. I started with the sgombro, which was a delicious ceviche-like tuna dish; my gracious companion split her fegatini with me, which were incredible. I exclaimed to her that if things continued like this, the meal would be one of the top 10 best in my life. The chicken liver was dark and rich.

I must confess, when we first sat down, I didn't expect much from our waitress, but she turned out to be one of the best I've ever had. When I asked her opinion on the pasta, she unhesitatingly told me to get the fusilli with pork shoulder ragu. I'm not a big fan of pasta, but this was delicious. She was also fantastic in guiding us with multiple wines: I hate when waiters call over a sommelier for everything.

I was disappointed with my tuna: it was fine, but not outstanding. The grilled lamb chops were better, but still not as remarkable as the pastas. When I come back - because I must find a way to make this happen - I will probably skip the entree course altogether. The dessert on the other hand, wow. Caramel is my favorite sweet, so it was a no-brainer to get the tartalletta di caramelle. Convivio's caramel was exemplary and sandwiching it between chocolate and tart highlighted its intense flavor.

My new dining table was delivered yesterday, which precluded lunch reservations, so the big meal of the day was joining my siblings and uncle at Cipriani downtown. Although I greatly enjoyed a corporate event I attended at their midtown location, I had no expectations. I was horrified by the prices and annoyed that they served their bread without olive oil. Yes, I know it's a chintzy American-esque thing to serve bread with olive oil but I still like it. Then they brought it to the table with the caprese and the olive oil turned out to be incredibly good.

My aunt was delighted by the waiter's Italian accent. Me, I was delighted by his unhesitating advice to order the tagliardi (as well as his patience as I rattled off the dishes I was considering). He picked well - I tried everyone else's dish and the veal ragu set off the homemade pasta far better than the bolognese or sausage. Again, I'm not a pasta fan, but if I keep eating this sort of stuff, I might reconsider.

We'd watched the merengue cake go back and forth several times, so it was no surprise we ordered that. The nice thing about eating with 7 other people is that someone joked, "Why don't we just get one of each [cake]?" and we could. I also like the white cake whose name escaped me, as well as the tirimisu-like one.

May the new year be as full of good eating as the past three days. Read More......

A Meal Fit for a Princess

I hope I don't lose my foodie card for failing to visit Salumeria Rosi for so long, bc it's just that good.

Their wine list is the perfect size: a thoughtful, representative collection of Italian wines that does not overwhelm the casual drinker. Their list of meats on the other hand is very broad. Fortunately, we had an excellent server who had clear, concise recommendations on both: we had an off-list nebbiolo, finocchiona, and prosciutto toscano grigliato. The finocchiona was delicious - the fennel gave it a very pleasant flavor and I nibbled it with a little of the rosemary that is part of the place setting. I found the prosciutto to be surprisingly ham-like; not unpleasantly, but not something I need to have again.

We'd originally planned on going for tapas last night, so the small plates were perfect. We had lasagna, brussel sprouts, costina (Tuscan short ribs braised in a tomato sauce), and butternut risotto. Everything was delicious, but I particularly liked the sweetness of the butternut in the risotto in contrast to the pumpkin seed garnish.

How wonderful was our server? When we asked for a cheese recommendation, she noticed we still had a little wine left, and suggested we save it to go with the ubriaco, a drunken cow cheese. Yum! The best though was our dessert: a campari semifreddo. It had the perfect amount of campari-bitterness to match the sweetness of the other ingredients. I'd go back to Salumeria Rosi just to see what other desserts their chef creates. Read More......

With a little help from some pepper

Today my fishmonger said, "Well, if you've had the bass, it's been a while, so why don't you have that this week?" Sure. I bought both the fillets she had left and cooked one with a little butter in the skillet, with olive oil, black pepper, and salt on the fish itself on both sides. Maybe I'm just hungry, or maybe it's just tasty: either way, I'm contemplating getting the other fillet out of the fridge and cooking it too.

It's no longer heirloom tomato season :( but I have sugar snap peas I bought at the supermarket a few days ago. I tossed those in the oil-pepper mixture remaining in the skillet after the fish. I added a little ground ancho to add another dimension to the vegetables, which was absolutely the right choice. So good. Read More......

I think we have a winner

"What's good this week?"
"We don't usually have the mahi mahi and you haven't had that one yet."

The fishmonger remembered me! And she was right, I hadn't had the mahi mahi and according to Seafood Watch, it's a good fish to eat.

It also tastes good. I pan fried it with a little pepper and olive oil, just a few minutes on each side. It went perfectly with the tabbouleh my mother left behind yesterday. The combination of flavors reminded me of fish tacos, which are one of my favorite foods, except healthier and more interesting. I think this will have to go into the rotation. Read More......

Mmm... tomato season

I was supposed to make an omelet for my post-run breakfast this morning, but as I was cutting the tomatoes, they were so tasty I couldn't bear to cover the flavor. I wish I'd taken a picture for y'all, bc they were so pretty all lined up on my spoonrest: the grassy-flavored yellow-green one and the thick umami flavor of the vermilion one. I've never had such delicious tomatoes in my life - and I can't wait to get more. Read More......

When Farmer's Markets Strike

On the one hand, I just spent $50 on food and came home with pretty much one grocery bag. On the other hand, it's all fresh and yummy and local.

Personally, I blame the Missoula farmer's market. When a local friend suggested it as A Thing To Do in her town, I was dubious, but went anyhow. It was enormous, with an entire section devoted to produce and a different area devoted to prepared goods. Even with nowhere to cook, I bought huckleberries and heirloom tomatoes, quiche and chocolate and a roll. I finished the huckleberries with granola and a glass of milk at Mammoth Hot Springs (visitor center) in Yellowstone; I couldn't wait with the tomatoes and ate them immediately at the market.

The tomatoes were again my downfall at today's market: this is the first time I've seen them sold at Lincoln Center. Once I decided to buy 2lb of tomatoes, the rest was downhill. I bought swiss chard, round zucchini, turkey sausage, and macoun apples. I love how enthusiastically the fishmongers made suggestions for the flounder I'm currently eating. The acidity of my enormous tomato perfectly sets off the flakiness of the fish, and I'm looking forward to rosemary bread and farmer's cheese for dessert. Read More......

Getting My Green On

I know I'm going to hell for this, but I'd never actually been to my local green market until today - and I only went today bc I passed it on my way to Bed, Bath & Beyond for a new nonstick pan.

It was awesome. There were two vendors selling baked goods, one selling turkey, one selling pork, and one selling cheese. I was tempted to buy an herb plant, but couldn't decide if I'd really use enough rosemary to make it worthwhile, or if the basil plant was big enough.

The cheesemonger had cheese-glazed croissants and a variety of rustic breads. I bought a "medieval alpine" cheese, a cranberry walnut loaf, and a croissant. Next time I'll try the whole wheat croissant.

I couldn't decide between the various fish, so I let the fishmonger pick. I broiled the sea bass in the oven with a little white wine, olive oil, and butter while I steamed asparagus on the stove. The fish with the slight olive oil flavor is so delicious, I almost ate it between the kitchen and the dining table. I'm vaguely tempted to go back right now and buy some more, but tomorrow I get to have the beet pasta with pork chops. Mmm... Read More......

Three hours to cheese understanding

It took me so long to grok wine that when I realized I knew even less about cheese, I felt despair. How little did I know? On a visit to the cheesemonger in Grand Central, I enjoyed a proferred cheese and asked, "So how is this different from pecorino?" The woman looked at me funny and said, "well, one's from a goat and one's from a sheep." oops. With so many bad uneducational wine tastings under my belt, I thought it would take many tries before I had any understanding. Instead, Murray's Cheese's 101 class taught me enough to feel confident.

We tasted 7 cheeses with a two wines and fruit and meat as accompaniments. The cheese were of very different types, but what made it so memorable (ergo, helpful) was that the instructor didn't get hung up on categorizing. She gave us flavors that were representative and used them to illustrate a common vocabulary that would allow us to order them again, but didn't get crazy about New World vs. Old World or goat vs. sheep vs. cow. Moreover, her enthusiasm was infectious and enabling.

Even with a sample of only seven, I came to see certain commonalities in what I liked. I adored both the sheep cheeses we tried, although that might be because they were the uncooked pressed cheeses. While I've eaten and enjoyed washed rind and blue cheeses in the past, the contrast made me realize I don't enjoy them quite as much as say a "bloomy" (creamy, Brie-like) cheese.

I can't wait to try my new cheese knowledge at Fairway - although I have to eat all the stuff I have in the fridge first! Read More......

Sometimes, cheap and simple is a virtue

In reading food blogs and cookbooks, it's easy to get hung up on organic this and artisanal that. Not everything requires locally grown, hand fed, regularly massaged protein sources. My grandmother's fried rice with rice, eggs, and ham, for example. It's my favorite comfort food and it does NOT taste better with prosciutto di Parma than Oscar Meyer, as I learned this morning. oops. Read More......

Dinner at the CIA

When someone asks you, would you like to go to dinner at the Culinary Institute of America, the correct response is, "Yes." For years, I've wanted to go, but given that it's two hours outside NYC and I don't have a car, the logistics never worked out, until my friend Paul organized a trip to American Bounty.

I'm not sure if the service was impeccable because we had a large group or because it's always like that, but it was. The waiter was knowledgeable about all the dishes and was able to make suggestions about pairings. I started with a blanc de noir at the bar - I was so excited they actually had one labeled as such on the menu! And even the rosemary bread was delicious.

I had the daily preparation of foie gras, which was served with a sweet potato puree. I had a taste of the foie gras to start and then took a taste of the sweet potato. Both were delicious, but it didn't work for me until I took the final bite and put them both on the spoon at the same time. I could no longer taste the special flavor of the foie gras - but the combination was spectacular.

I generally find entrees less interesting than appetizers and I'm afraid that was true of the simmer short ribs. I can only describe it as monolithic - tasty and well-prepared, but ultimately not particularly interesting.

I had the gingerbread cake for dessert, mostly because I wanted to see how the CIA did caramel. It was fine, although not quite as much of a knockout as the foie gras. Unfortunately, I think 4 hours round trip is a bit much for even that foie gras. Read More......

Winter Soup

I consider soup to be the highest ROI food you can cook: it's filling and healthy, with a high tolerance for cooking errors. I'd been looking for a while for a black bean soup because they are so high in iron and once again, Cook's Illustrated had the answers.

I was unfamiliar with some of their techniques: they don't pre-soak the beans, but cook them with the ham steak for 1.5 hours, with the vegetables sauteed in another pot. I'm not crazy about having to wash multiple pots, but this was worth it. I substituted a smoked pork chop made with Berkshire pigs for the ham steak - it seemed like it would have more flavor. Combined with the cumin in the main recipe, it gave the soup a delightful smoky flavor, just perfect for a cold winter's night. Read More......

Esca restores my faith in great food

I'd started to think that maybe going to restaurants was a waste of time, money, and calories. Restaurant food is always less healthy and more expensive, and I've been getting pretty decent at cooking basic things for myself. 'course, it helps if you have great ingredients. Last weekend, I was running errands in Little Italy, when I found myself in front of DiPaolo's. I'd heard about it on Chowhound, but never been. I didn't actually need anything and the wait was long, but I bought parmiggiano reggiano, speck (smoked prosciutto), focaccia, and broccoli rabe ravioli. The speck was so good, dinner that night was just a few slices on the focaccia with some olive oil. Mmm...

Then I went to Esca for lunch on Friday and was reminded why we go out. The amuse boche was a white bean and tuna focaccia. They had four choices for the Restaurant Week appetizer: the crudo was tempting, but I had the crispy smelt. The entree choices were pasta with a mix of seafood or amberjack; my companion and I both had the latter. I wish I could do justice to the delicacy of the flavors and how well they integrated, but I can't. I was ready to declare we should come to Esca for every Restaurant Week, when they brought the sublime dessert: orange blossom panna cotta with winter citrus and candied pine nuts. I usually find panna cotta a little boring, but it was the perfect palate cleanser at the end of the meal. This is what a great restaurant meal should be. Read More......

San Francisco for Fast Food

I've been doing a lot of great eating on the road lately. Last weekend, I took a mini-break in San Francisco to visit friends who've just moved to the Bay area. How well do they know me? The drive to and from the airport included stops at In-n-Out. Hurrah!

I get a lot of grief for how much I like fast food, but I am completely unapologetic about my love for In-n-Out. This is not the tired, microwaved meal you get at the national chains - all the food is cooked to order. e.g. I almost always order my fries "well done" bc I like them extra-crispy. Coming from the airport, I ordered my burger animal style; while I have a "don't ask, don't tell" policy on onions, the combination of flavors on the In-N-Out burger makes the grilled onions work. On my way back, I ordered a classic - and found myself exclaiming over the crispness of the toasted bun. I would not be unhappy to eat that burger at any restaurant in NYC.

Another bas cuisine favorite of mine is fish tacos, ever since I was introduced to them by friends at a Baja Fresh in LA. Sadly, we don't have those in Manhattan, so I have to go to Cali for my authentically fast food fix. My poor long suffering friends took me there for breakfast (since my stomach is on east coast time). I ordered a trio of seafood tacos - their usual fried fish taco, a mahi mahi special, and blackened shrimp. The shrimp taco was pretty good - I'd eat that again - but the mahi mahi special wasn't very good at all, probably bc the quality of the ingredients couldn't stand up to the simple treatment. I guess for fast food, it really needs to be fried.

It wasn't all fast food though. Saturday afternoon, we took a food wander through the city. We bought a custom box of chocolates at CocoaBella. While I like the interesting flavor combinations at CocoaBella, I think MarieBelle's chocolates are more exquisite, possibly bc I've been known to buy 3 chocolates with my two siblings and eat a third of each, savoring every morsel. Oddly enough, on our way to the Ferry Building, we walked past a newsstand advertising their 250 varieties of chocolate bars. They really do have a great many chocolate bars and we bought a bacon bar to share and habanero caramels. The bacon bar was interesting - the bacon tasted like all the extraneous fat had been removed before it was chocolatified, so all that was left was the smoky flavor. I loved the habanero caramels - I love caramel something fierce in general, so when you add spiciness to make the aftertaste more interesting... well.

My friend Janice was excited to take me to the Ferry building and after visiting, I can see why. I love the hunter-gatherer feeling of finding tasty ingredients for dinner at little artisanal shops. We bought heirloom tomatoes to go with our white balsamic vinegar, a variety of cheeses from Cowgirl Creamery, and a small roast that Janice cooked while I sat with Lochai on the porch smoking a cigar. Now that's a mini-break! Read More......